- Wash hands and sanitize the work plan before beginning preparation; minimize contact of the ingredients with the hands
- Sanitize utensils and containers before use
1. Anhydrous compositions ( no water in their composition) containing a very small amount of water – such as body butters, fatty creams, serums oil, massage facial and body oil, ointments and balms, deodorant solid, make-up solids or oil is recommended to be stabilized with antioxidants:
- Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant agent which is employed in the usual concentration of 0.2% to 0.5% – we recommend this ingredient in the anhydrous compositions because also stabilizes the oxidation of sensitive vegetable oils
- Antioxidant extract of rosemary oil protects against rancidit , it is recommended to be added in vegetable oil. Typical dosage 0.3%
- Essential oils of rosemary, tea tree, oregano or palmarosa – or combination of them – have antioxidant, antibacterial and antifungal agents, but at their inclusion should be considered possibly other essential oils are added to the composition. Not neglect the fact that they do not lend themselves to any preparation and their smell is pregnant , hence can only be used occasionally for a plus of antioxidant
2. The aqueous compositions – such as lotions and creams, prepared by emulsifying, serums with water,compositions, makeup liquid toners, cleansers and shower gels need preservation. These preparations are very sensitive to infestation by bacteria, molds and fungi. Conservation is not optional, it is mandatory. Some of these nonconserved may be stored in a refrigerator for a few days . Some of the preservatives that I use in my recipes are:
- grapefruit seed extract concentrated – an antifungal and antibacterial agent with broad spectrum. It is a natural preservative, working in a wide range of pH but is incompatible with xanthan gum, extracts of green tea, natural silicic acid, and some formulas containing low percentages of emulsifiers. Typical dosage 0.6%
- Cosgard – Synthetic preservative authorized by Ecocert for organic cosmetics, with a broad spectrum, effective from 3 < pH < 8. Compatible with all my recipes. Typical dosage 0.6% – 0.8%
- Fragard – antimicrobial aromatic agent, effective from 4 < pH < 9 recommended for compositions containing emulsifiers and water. Not suitable for gels, solutions exclusively aqueous, biphasic preparations . Typical dosage 0.6% .
- Dermosoft complex – a multi-functional ingredient which can be used for the preservation of the compositions containing water. It is effective only in compositions having a pH of at most 5.5. Indicative dosage 2.5-4% .
Dosage in higher percentage than recommended does not automatically increase the validity of the compositions!
What means ”between 1-3 months”? Shelf life varies depending on the composition ingredients: when using oxidation-sensitive oils and readily degrade or assets that are sensitive to microbiological pollution when the period during which the preparation can be safely used is one month after preparation. Prolonged shelf life is easy to container type: the type airless or contactless keep better composition and oxidizing microbial infestation. The mate or dark containers, just bring a plus to preserve freshness.
Preservatives, for all but especially for the synthesis – Cosgard, we recommend carrying out a prior test of tolerance by people who are prone to irritation. Details of the test procedure found in the preservative sheet.
What happens if a cosmetic preparation (containing water) is not preserved? Microbes can cause separation of ingredients, accelerating rancidity of oils and butters, causing odor and color-changing composition. Contaminated products are harmful to the skin, since this causes irritation, eczema ,itching and infections.